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A Travel Guide to Patagonia

  • Apr 25
  • 17 min read

Updated: Apr 26


Video from 2025 visit to Patagonia

Video from 2026 visit to Patagonia

Patagonia is home to some of the world's most iconic landscapes. Located on the southernmost point of South America, this region stretches across Chile and Argentina. Patagonia is unbelievably scenic and diverse—here you will find otherworldly mountain peaks, vast glaciers, massive icebergs, dramatic waterfalls, glacial lakes, dense forests, abundant wildlife, and more.


In March 2025, I went on a solo trip to Patagonia—and returned in March 2026. Traveling alone not only allowed me to connect more deeply with my surroundings, but also gave me the opportunity to meet so many incredible people along the way. During both times in Patagonia, there were countless moments when I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. Being here reminded me how lucky we are to be able to see and experience such beautiful places—not only in these remote corners of the world, but also in the familiar places close to our homes.


To help plan your own visit to Patagonia, keep reading for my comprehensive guide and itinerary—and in case it's helpful, here are my YouTube videos: one from 2025 covering both the Chilean and Argentine sides, and one from 2026 focused on the Argentine side. This guide is intended for those looking to explore Patagonia without committing to the W or O Treks, and is based on my own experience doing day hikes throughout Torres del Paine and Los Glaciares National Parks. My first visit was one of the most logistically complex trips I've planned, so I put together everything you might need to know based on what I learned before, during, and after both trips. If you have questions, feel free to leave a comment below or reach out to me directly here.


View of Torres del Paine from Mirador Base Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View of Torres del Paine from Mirador Base Las Torres

Table of Contents

Skip ahead to specific sections in this guide!



View of Monte Fitz Roy from Mirador del Fitz Roy in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
View of Monte Fitz Roy from Mirador del Fitz Roy

When to Visit Patagonia

Below you’ll find a breakdown of what weather to generally expect during each season, but plan to expect the unexpected as Patagonia’s weather is notoriously unpredictable. Not only can sunshine, rain, and snow all happen in a single day (which happened on my hike to Mirador Base Las Torres), but the winds can be extreme—at times exceeding over 100 miles per hour. Be prepared, pack layers, and build buffer days into your itinerary in case inclement weather shifts your plans.


Summer (DecemberFebruary): Expect warm weather during the day and cool weather at night. Summer is considered peak season in Patagonia. Not only is the weather at its warmest, but the region also sees up to 18 hours of daylight—ideal for long days exploring. Fall (MarchMay): Expect cool weather during the day and chilly weather at night. Fall is considered one of the shoulder seasons in Patagonia. I visited at the end of March both times, and cannot recommend it enough as the region becomes draped in fall colors during this time of year.

Winter (JuneAugust): Expect snowy and cold weather. Winter is the quietest season in Patagonia as many trails and services close until spring.

Spring (SeptemberNovember): Expect mild weather during the day and chilly weather at night. Spring is considered another shoulder season in Patagonia. Visit in late spring to spot wildflowers in bloom across the region.


View of Cerro Torre from Mirador del Cerro Torre in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
View of Cerro Torre from Mirador del Cerro Torre

Where to Stay in Patagonia

Below you'll find recommendations on where to stay in or near Torres del Paine and Los Glaciares National Parks, as well as types of accommodations to expect.


Torres del Paine National Park: Whether you plan to stay in or near Torres del Paine National Park, accommodation options include hotels, hostels, and campgrounds.


If you want to stay in the park, lodging options are limited—and they can get expensive quickly. For example, during peak season, Hostería Pehoé can cost over $200 USD per night, while Explora Patagonia can exceed $5,000 USD per night. No, that’s not a typo!


As an alternative, I highly recommend staying near Río Serrano which is located right outside the park. There are a number of lodging options in this area that are generally more affordable than those in the park. Plus, the views driving into the park from this area are spectacular (see here).


During my first trip to Patagonia, I stayed at Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area. Find more details on my stay here.


Los Glaciares National Park: There are two main towns that you can stay in to explore Los Glaciares National Park—El Chaltén and El Calafate. The accommodation options in both towns include hotels, hostels, and Airbnbs.


If you plan to hike to see Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, stay in El Chaltén where the trailheads to most hikes are within walking distance from town. If you plan to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier, stay in El Calafate which is the base for most glacier excursions.


During my first trip to Patagonia, I stayed at this Airbnb in El Chaltén. During my second trip, I stayed at this Airbnb in El Chaltén and this Airbnb in El Calafate.

View of Cuernos del Paine from the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View of Cuernos del Paine from the Río Serrano area

Getting Around in Patagonia

Below you'll find recommendations on how to get to, from, and around Torres del Paine and Los Glaciares National Parks.


Torres del Paine National Park: My recommendation for getting around in Torres del Paine National Park is by car. While there are buses that run through parts of the park, having a car allowed me to explore on my own schedule, access places buses did not reach, and make spontaneous stops.


I rented a car from LYS in Puerto Natales and cannot recommend them enough. The entire experience from booking to picking up and dropping off the car was seamless. Here are a few things to note:


If you’re a United States citizen, you do not need an international driving permit—just your driver's license. However, confirm with your rental car provider in case their policy differs.

While online sources mentioned that a 4WD is not necessary in the park, I was really glad I went with one anyway. Most of the park roads are rough with gravel, loose rocks, and seemingly endless potholes. If you prefer a 2WD, I recommend renting one with higher ground clearance.

There are no gas stations in the park. While the closest gas stations are in Puerto Natales, some accommodations in the Río Serrano area sell limited fuel at a steep markup—in case you need it. My car could have likely made it through four days in the park and back to Puerto Natales on a full tank, but I refueled once at Río Serrano Hotel for peace of mind.


Los Glaciares National Park: If you’re staying in El Chaltén, you do not need to worry about transportation to get around in town as the town itself is small and walkable. As mentioned previously, the trailheads to most hikes are within walking distance from town. If you're staying in El Calafate, the town is larger and more spread out, so while the main area is walkable, you may need a taxi depending on where you're staying and going.


To get between Puerto Natales, El Chaltén, and El Calafate, your two options are to drive or take the bus (I recommend the latter). Here are a few things to note:


• If you prefer to drive, confirm with your rental car provider if cross-border travel is allowed if you plan to drive from Puerto Natales to El Chaltén or El Calafate—and vice versa.

• There are a handful of bus companies that operate along the routes between Puerto Natales, El Chaltén, and El Calafate. While you can book directly through each company’s website, I booked all of my bus tickets through Busbud for convenience.

There are no direct buses that run between Puerto Natales and El Chaltén. To get from Puerto Natales to El Chaltén, you'll need to take two buses—the first bus from Puerto Natales to El Calafate, then the second bus from El Calafate to El Chaltén. To return, take the same route in reverse. And make sure to plan for buffer time between the two buses as border crossings can take longer than expected—especially during peak season.


Guanacos along the highway to Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Guanacos along the highway to Torres del Paine National Park

Travel Tips for Patagonia

Below you'll find extra bits of information that you might want to know before your visit to Patagonia—these were definitely on my mind before my first visit!


Are there international entry requirements that I should be aware of? As of April 2026, U.S. citizens only need a valid passport to enter Chile and Argentina. However, entry requirements can change or vary depending on where you're traveling from—make sure to check the most up-to-date requirements for Chile and Argentina before your trip. Is Patagonia safe for a female solo traveler? Yes, absolutely. I never once felt unsafe during either visit—in fact, I felt safer in Patagonia than I sometimes do back in the States. Even during the shoulder season, I was rarely alone on hiking trails for more than ten minutes—except in the early mornings, which I savored for their quietness.

Do I need reservations for Torres del Paine and Los Glaciares National Parks? Torres del Paine National Park requires a park pass, which you can purchase here. Los Glaciares National Park only requires a park pass at specific locations, which you can check and purchase here.

What currency should I bring? You'll need Chilean pesos in Chile and Argentine pesos in Argentina. While you should bring pesos, credit cards are widely accepted—even at small, local shops. I also recommend bringing U.S. dollars—my bank didn’t offer Argentine pesos (which from what I read online, might be common among banks in the States) and from my experience, businesses in El Chaltén that didn't accept credit cards accepted U.S. dollars. Which eSIMs should I get? I purchased eSIMs from Airalo, using this eSIM in Chile and this eSIM in Argentina (if you plan to purchase from Airalo, you can use my referral code for $3 off your first purchase: CAROL5123). Most sources I read online mentioned that eSIM coverage can be a hit or miss in Patagonia, especially in El Chaltén. But contrary to what I read, I had a positive experience using Airalo's eSIMs in Puerto Natales, El Chaltén, and El Calafate where I had coverage the entire time. However, as you might expect, coverage is minimal to nonexistent once you're within national park boundaries so be sure to download offline apps like navigation maps, trail maps, and translation tools ahead of time.

Which plug types do I need? You’ll need a Type C plug in Chile and a Type I plug in Argentina.


Hostería Pehoé above Lago Pehoé in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Hostería Pehoé above Lago Pehoé

My 2-Week Itinerary in Patagonia

Below you'll find both of my trips combined into a single two-week itinerary, which you can use as a flexible guide and adapt based on your pace and priorities.


Days 1 and 2:

Travel to Puerto Natales: I traveled to Puerto Natales as this is where I'd be picking up my rental car to get to Torres del Paine National Park. Puerto Natales is the closest town to the park—roughly an hour drive away. This town offers access to supplies and services that you won't find in the park including grocery stores, gas stations, and more.


To get to Puerto Natales, I took three connecting flights to get to Presidente Carlos Ibáñez del Campo International Airport in Punta Arenas. While you can fly directly into Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport in Puerto Natales, the flights were significantly more expensive for me. From the airport in Punta Arenas, I took a bus to get to Terminal Rodoviario in Puerto Natales. Here are a few things to note:


Book your bus ticket online with Bus-Sur in advance. • If you plan to take this exact bus route, keep in mind that the bus typically arrives 30 minutes after the scheduled departure time. For example, if the bus is scheduled to depart at 2:00pm, the bus will arrive at 2:30pm instead.

The bus ride takes around 3 hours, so be sure to plan accordingly.


Airbnb in Puerto NatalesAfter a long travel day, I checked into my Airbnb for the night. Ines's home had everything I needed for a comfortable stay—I cannot recommend it enough!


Day 3:

Errands in Puerto Natales: Before heading to Torres del Paine National Park, I picked up my rental car from LYS (which I cover in detail here) and grabbed groceries at Supermercado Superfrut.


View from Puerto Natales of Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Puerto Natales

View from Puerto Natales of Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Puerto Natales

Mirador Lago Sarmiento: On my way to this viewpoint, I can distinctly remember turning a corner on the highway and getting my first glimpse of the mountain peaks in the park. From Mirador Lago Sarmiento, you can see Torres del Paine in the distance.


Guanacos along the highway to Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Guanacos along the highway to Torres del Paine National Park

Mirador Lago Sarmiento in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Mirador Lago Sarmiento

Laguna Amarga: Just around the corner is Laguna Amarga where you can see Torres del Paine towering behind a turquoise lake, with the park highway running below the towersoffering a dramatic sense of scale.


Laguna Amarga in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Laguna Amarga

Cascada Río Paine: Cascada Río Paine is a multi-tiered waterfall that cascades over rugged cliffs. A walking path winds along the river, offering several viewpoints to see the falls.


Cascada Río Paine in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Cascada Río Paine

Cascada Río Paine in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Cascada Río Paine

Mirador Lago Nordenskjöld: I've never seen any place like Mirador Lago Nordenskjöld—the landscape makes you feel like you're on another planet. From the viewpoint, jagged, glaciated mountain peaks rise behind a ridiculously vibrant turquoise lake.


Mirador Lago Nordenskjöld in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Mirador Lago Nordenskjöld

Lago Pehoé: Lago Pehoé is a clear, turquoise lake—and it's where I got my first glimpse of Cuernos del Paine, a set of otherworldly mountain peaks that would define the landscape in many of the views I'd see during my time in Torres del Paine National Park. There are a number of viewpoints overlooking Lago Pehoé, including Hostería Pehoé and Mirador Cóndor.


View of Cuernos del Paine from Lago Pehoé in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View of Cuernos del Paine from Lago Pehoé

Hostería Pehoé above Lago Pehoé in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Hostería Pehoé above Lago Pehoé

Mirador Cóndor: The view from Mirador Cóndor is unbelievable—it feels like something out of a film. This 1.5-mile out-and-back trail offers a bird’s-eye view of Lago Pehoé framed by glaciated mountains, including Cuernos del Paine.


View from the trail to Mirador Cóndor in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from the trail to Mirador Cóndor

Mirador Cóndor in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Mirador Cóndor

Cabañas Vista al Paine: After spending the day in the park, I checked into Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area. These cabins offer private rooms and bathrooms with shared spaces including a kitchen and living room.


There is so much to see from these cabins. Animals freely roam through the grounds, including horses and dogs. And the sunrises over the distant mountains are magical—with an unobstructed view of Cuernos del Paine.


Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Cabañas Vista al Paine

Horse on the grounds of Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Horse on the grounds of Cabañas Vista al Paine

View from Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Cabañas Vista al Paine

Horses on the grounds of Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Horses on the grounds of Cabañas Vista al Paine

Dog on the grounds of Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Dog on the grounds of Cabañas Vista al Paine

Sunrise from Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Sunrise from Cabañas Vista al Paine

Sunrise over Cuernos del Paine from Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Sunrise over Cuernos del Paine from Cabañas Vista al Paine

Day 4:

Stay in Cabañas Vista al Paine: The night prior, I woke up (and stayed up) to Patagonia's winds which roared through the entire night—relentlessly rattling the walls and shaking the windows. The day after, the winds did not let up. Unsurprisingly, the Grey Glacier boat tour I had scheduled for the day was canceled and rescheduled to later in the week. Hoping for a backup plan, I drove to the Mirador Cuernos trailhead, but it was also closed due to the winds.


Because I had anticipated inclement weather during my time in Patagonia, I planned buffer days in case. With no sign of the winds easing up, I headed back to my cabin where I spent the rest of the day by the wood-burning stove.


Wood-burning stove in Cabañas Vista al Paine in the Río Serrano area near Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Cabañas Vista al Paine

Day 5:

Mirador Base Las Torres: The 12.5-mile out-and-back trail to Mirador Base Las Torres is incredibly scenic—it's easily one of the most beautiful hikes I've ever done. There are views at nearly every turn, including snow-capped peaks, dramatic waterfalls, deep valleys, roaring rivers, lush forests, and vibrant fall foliage. And at the base of the towers, a turquoise lake lies beneath the massive Torres del Paine. Here are a few things to note:


• While this trail is rated as difficult, the most challenging section is the final stretch before reaching the base of the towers. During this section, you’ll need to scramble over large boulders on a steep incline.

Pack layers and appropriate gear as you can potentially encounter the full spectrum of weather, which is not uncommon in Patagonia. On the day I hiked this trail, I had sunshine, clouds, a light sprinkle, heavy rain, strong winds, and even snow at the base of the towers—all within the span of a few hours.

If the towers are covered by clouds when you reach the base, be sure to wait for the clouds to clear. I waited for half an hour, and it was well worth the wait!


Purchase tickets here in advance.


View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres

View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres

View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres

View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from the trail to Mirador Base Las Torres

Mirador Base Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Mirador Base Las Torres

Day 6:

Grey Glacier Boat Tour: The Grey Glacier boat tour was an unforgettable experience. Operated by Hotel Lago Grey, this 3-hour tour offers unbelievable views of the vast glacier and towering icebergs nestled beneath imposing, snow-capped mountains. The boat crew was fantastic—our guide, Christopher, brought the landscape (even more) to life with facts I wouldn't have known otherwise. And they offered complimentary Calafate Sour onboard, which was so good!


Make a reservation here in advance.


Beach at Lago Grey in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Lago Grey

Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

View from Grey Glacier boat tour in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
View from Grey Glacier boat tour

Mirador Grey: On my way back to Puerto Natales, I stopped by Mirador Grey for one last view before leaving Torres del Paine National Park. This overlook offers a panoramic view of the park's mountains behind Lago el Toro.


Mirador Grey in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia
Mirador Grey

Afrigonia: Before returning to the first Airbnb I stayed at in Puerto Natales, I had dinner at Afrigonia with two new friends I met on the boat tour. Afrigonia is a local restaurant specializing in African-Chilean fusion cuisine. I tried guanaco for the first time here, but the highlight for me was their sorbet!


Dinner (guanaco steak) at Afrigonia in Puerto Natales, Chile
Dinner at Afrigonia

Dessert (sorbet) at Afrigonia in Puerto Natales, Chile
Dessert at Afrigonia

Day 7:

Travel to El Chaltén: During my first trip to Patagonia, I traveled from Puerto Natales to El Chaltén by bus. During my second trip, I took four connecting flights to get from San Francisco to Comandante Armando Tola International Airport in El Calafate, then took a bus from El Calafate to El Chaltén. I cover both bus routes in detail here.

Errands in El Chaltén: After checking into my accommodation, I ran a few errands I wanted to highlight that might be helpful for planning your trip, including picking up groceries and renting gear. If you plan to cook or stock up on food, I recommend Pachamama Supermercado for groceries and Maruja Gourmet for specialty items. For gear rentals like trekking poles (which can’t be brought in carry-on luggage), I recommend Patagonia Hikes.


View of El Chaltén from the trail to Laguna de Los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
View of El Chaltén

Day 8:

Laguna de los Tres: Laguna de Los Tres is one of the most quintessential hikes in Patagonia—and for good reason. The trail takes you past glaciated mountains, snow-capped peaks, wide-open valleys, dense forests, and river and creek crossings, before reaching the turquoise waters of Laguna de los Tres with Fitz Roy towering behind. The trail is listed as 14 miles on AllTrails, though I clocked closer to 16.


I began my hike at around 5:30am, which meant beginning in complete darkness. With just a headlamp, I could only see a few steps ahead—though the trail was well-marked and easy to follow, even in the dark. By the time I reached Mirador del Fitz Roy, I could make out tiny headlamps slowly making their way up the mountain.


As the sun came up, the landscape slowly revealed itself—glaciated peaks, sweeping valleys, and a sea of fall colors. A moment I distinctly remember was seeing the Fitz Roy Cascades, a series of small waterfalls tucked beneath a wide valley with Fitz Roy in the distance. Located off the main trail, the cascades are often overlooked as hikers head towards more popular spots. Because of this, the area feels incredibly still and untouched.


Another moment that stuck with me was just before reaching Laguna de los Tres, when I made a turn and saw a group of hikers moving along the trail beneath massive mountain peaks in front of them—they looked minuscule in scale and really put the landscape into perspective. The final ascent was steep and challenging, but reaching Laguna de los Tres and being so close to Fitz Roy was an unforgettable experience.


Note if you’re short on time or don’t want to commit to the full hike, Laguna Capri is a shorter alternative along the same route.


Purchase tickets on-site or here in advance.


View of glacier from the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna de los Tres

View of glacier from the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna de los Tres

View of glaciated mountain reflecting in pond from the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna de los Tres

View of mountains towering behind boardwalk crossing along the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna de los Tres

View of snow-dusted mountain behind a forested landscape from the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna de los Tres

Patagonian sierra finch on the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Patagonian sierra finch on the trail to Laguna de los Tres

View of hikers beneath towering mountain peaks from the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna de los Tres

Chimango caracara on the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Chimango caracara on the trail to Laguna de los Tres

Turquoise waters of Laguna de los Tres beneath Monte Fitz Roy in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Laguna de los Tres

View of Monte Fitz Roy from Laguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Monte Fitz Roy

Fitz Roy Cascades in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Fitz Roy Cascades

Fitz Roy Cascades in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Fitz Roy Cascades

Laguna Capri in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Laguna Capri

Mountain caracara on the trail to Laguna Capri in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Mountain caracara on the trail to Laguna Capri

Roots Patagonia: After the hike, I had an early dinner at Roots Patagonia which was located near the trailhead. A burger and fries was the perfect post-hike meal!


Lunch (burger and fries) at Roots Patagonia in El Chaltén in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Lunch at Roots Patagonia

Chalteños, Alfajores y Dulces Artesanales: Stop by Chalteños, Alfajores y Dulces Artesanales to try traditional alfajores—sweet, crumbly cookies filled with a rich, gooey layer of your choice of flavor. I tried raspberry and dulce de leche, which were both delicious!


Dessert (alfajores) at Chalteños, Alfajores y Dulces Artesanales in El Chaltén in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Dessert at Chalteños, Alfajores y Dulces Artesanales

Day 9:

Laguna Torre: The trail to Laguna Torre has a completely different feel compared to Laguna de los Tres, even though they’re located in the same region. It winds past golden valleys, frost-covered thickets, and a wide forested valley—before reaching the glacial lake tucked beneath the imposing Cerro Torre. The trail is listed as around 11 miles on AllTrails, but I clocked closer to 12.


I began this hike at dawn and watched the darkness quickly give way to daylight. The early hours were incredibly still, with a soft pink glow cast over snow-capped peaks. After reaching Mirador del Cerro Torre, Cerro Torre remained in view for most of the rest of the trail. Laguna Torre itself felt otherworldly with the sharp spires of Cerro Torre and neighboring peaks towering behind the lake, surrounded by glaciers and icebergs.


Note if you’re short on time or don’t want to commit to the full hike, Mirador del Cerro Torre is a shorter alternative along the same route.


Pink sunrise glow over a mountain peak from the trail to Laguna Torre in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna Torre

View of Cerro Torre and neighboring mountain peaks above a valley of gnarled trees from the trail to Laguna Torre in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from the trail to Laguna Torre

Laguna Torre in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Laguna Torre

Reflection of Cerro Torre in Laguna Torre at Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia
Laguna Torre

Cerveceria Patagonia: After the hike, I had a late lunch at Cerveceria Patagonia. It was the perfect place to enjoy a beer after two days of hiking, before taking the bus to El Calafate where I'd be staying the next two nights.


Burger, fries, and beer for lunch at Cerveceria Patagonia in El Chaltén, Argentina
Lunch at Cerveceria Patagonia

Day 10:

Perito Moreno Glacier: The Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in Patagonia, and it is massive. There are a number of ways to experience it—the most popular being the boardwalk directly across from the glacier or a boat ride that brings you up close to the glacier. I did a tour with this company that included both.


The boardwalk offers a panoramic view of the entire glacier, framed on both sides by mountain peaks. The sheer scale of the glacier was mind-boggling—it seemed to stretch on endlessly. But the boat tour stood out most for me. Up close, the glacier face felt enormous in a way that’s hard to fully grasp from photos or videos. The landscape felt unreal—dark mountains looming in the distance, framing jagged glacier formations and drifting icebergs. The rain, clouds, and shifting light that day only added to the experience. I was completely soaked at times, but it was easy to forget in this beautiful place.


Make a reservation here in advance.


View of Perito Moreno Glacier from boat in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Perito Moreno Glacier

Iceberg from Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Iceberg from Perito Moreno Glacier

View of Perito Moreno Glacier from boat in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Perito Moreno Glacier

View of clouds moving through mountain peaks from Perito Moreno Glacier boat tour in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from Perito Moreno Glacier boat tour

View of Perito Moreno Glacier from boardwalk in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Perito Moreno Glacier

View of Perito Moreno Glacier from boardwalk in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
Perito Moreno Glacier

View of mountains and icebergs from Perito Moreno Glacier boardwalk in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia
View from Perito Moreno Glacier boardwalk

Day 11:

Travel to Puerto Natales: I traveled back to Puerto Natales as this is where I'd be flying out from the next day. Most of the day was spent traveling from El Calafate to Puerto Natales by bus—which I cover in detail here.


La Disquería: Before heading to the Airbnb I’d been staying at in Puerto Natales, I had dinner at La Disquería. This restaurant specializes in a traditional Chilean cooking method, which uses a plow disk over an open flame. I had the ceviche salmon camaron (salmon and shrimp ceviche) and disco cangrejo rey (king crab disk).


Dinner (salmon and shrimp ceviche) at La Disquería in Puerto Natales, Chile
Dinner at La Disquería

Dinner (king crab disk) at La Disquería in Puerto Natales, Chile
Dinner at La Disquería

Days 12 and 13:

Travel back home: I flew out of Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport in Puerto Natales, followed by two connecting flights to get back home. Flying out of Puerto Natales was an experience in itself—and completely unexpected. From my window, I saw endless stretches of mountains blanketed in snow, vast glaciers sprawled across the landscape, and glacier-fed lakes filled with icebergs.


View of Patagonia from plane flying from Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport in Puerto Natales, Chile
View of Patagonia from plane

View of Patagonia from plane flying from Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport in Puerto Natales, Chile
View of Patagonia from plane

View of Patagonia from plane flying from Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport in Puerto Natales, Chile
View of Patagonia from plane

 
 
 

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